Domaine Llagastére
We’ve had many unexpected adventures on our journeys in southern France. None more delightful than meeting Pierre and Marie-Claire Fort at their unassuming Domaine in Port Vendres.
It was raining. We were collected from the port. It was cold. Marie-Claire had cooked a beautiful pork meatball stew. We met the pet seagull, christened Bob. And we sat and listened. We tasted. First last year’s vintage at the table. Then this year’s from the barrel, in the cellar directly under the house, built into the rock.
Pierre was mentored by the late Loire legend, Didier Dagueneau. ‘The Wildman of Pouilly’ aptly housed on Rue Ernest Che Guevara gained collectable, cult-like status for his belief in terroir and biodynamic practices. His protégée absorbed and they made taste-changing wines. Fast forward 50 years, having built the impeccable Domaine de Mouscaillo, retirement did not last. Within a year he’d bought a plot. And sought to master his third grape – Grenache.
Pierre & Marie-Claire are virtuosos of their farming winemaking craft.
Grenache Noir and Blanc. Two varieties. One steep terrace at slight altitude on schist. The slope faces the sea with all the fresh saline air gusting. The old vines have survived, and the fruit character shows in depth of flavour. And that terroir.
He’s well on his way to creating a third legacy: Sauvignon in Loire with Didier; Pinot Noir & Chardonnay handed onto son & wife; and now Grenache with Marie-Claire, their neighbours and Bob the seagull.
Taste Union is a family affair.